One quarter of the population of the Arab world resides in Egypt
Introduction
Standing in front of the Pyramids, evidence of a civilisation dating back five millennia, it's amazing to think that ancient Roman tourists used to come to this sandy spot outside Cairo to marvel at them, too.
History is everywhere: down the mighty Nile, Luxor is home to the Valley of the Kings and Karnak Temple. Take a classic Nile cruise further and you might see Aswan's dams, and the country's greatest treasure, the temples of Abu Simbel.
And as well as some of the world's best sightseeing, Egypt – at just a five-hour flight away - has year-round sunshine and great beaches.
For adventurers, there's camel-trekking, quad-biking and desert safaris to the oases of the Western Desert, and into the Sinai Desert to see St Catherine's Monastery, site of Moses' burning bush.
For sun, sea and sand fans, the many resorts of the Red Sea Riviera are easily available thanks to a huge increase in flights to Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada from UK regional airports. The scuba diving and snorkelling opportunities there are endless.
And new resorts opening along Egypt's Mediterranean coast mean a shorter flight, less extreme heat, and easier access to Egypt's loveliest city, Alexandria.
Breathe in.... shop for herbs and spices in the souks
Sightseeing
It's such an archaeological feast, you'll need to make a list. In Cairo make sure you see the Pyramids and Sphinx and the Egyptian Museum, where you can gaze on the golden mask of Tutankhamun.
At Luxor one of the best ways to start is to take a hot air balloon flight over Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, Hatshepsut's Mortuary Temple – then do it all by foot. You should also visit Luxor Museum to see the exquisite statues. In Alexandria, take in the Graeco-Roman Museum and the Biblioteca Alexandrina.
The temples of Abu Simbel should be on everyone's list, as should taking a trip on a felucca – or traditional sailing boat - for a few hours' peace on the Nile. At Aswan, take one over to the Botanical Gardens on Kitchener's Island, and watch the wild kittens play. Also at Aswan, there's the Philae Temple, the Unfinished Obelisk, the Nubian Museum and of course, the two dams.
Other sights include the pyramid at Saqqara and statues at Memphis near Cairo. Whilst in Cairo, try to see the Hanging Church and the Church of St Sergius for a flavour of the city's Coptic heritage; and the Citadel and Mosque of Mohammed Ali for its Islamic side.
More than 70 pyramids can be found along the Nile
Shopping
Cairo offers the best shops - head for big and busy Khan al Khalili, a vast market. Throughout Egypt, you will find gold jewellery
(18ct and good value); silver jewellery; perfumes
(try the gorgeous Gardenia flower essence to dab on your wrist), papyrus pictures, alabaster pots and statues, souvenir nick-nacks such as Tutankhamun and Nefertiti busts, cats, scarab beetles
(a sacred emblem) and ankhs (the cross-shaped key of life).
Cairo, 'city of a thousand minarets'
After dark
In tourist areas, fun Bedouin dinners in the desert are often offered - and belly dancing is usually included. Larger hotels offer oriental shows with dancers and musicians. Some have discos or even a casino. Ask around in Cairo where you can see authentic Egyptian belly dancing – otherwise in the tourist traps the dancers are usually Russian.In Cairo do the Sound and Light Show at the Pyramids, but don't bother with the rather dull Sound and Light Show at Karnak Temple in Luxor.
The Great Sphinx, Giza, is Egypt's oldest 'superhuman' stone sculpture
Eating
Egyptian food is like Lebanese - thick lentil soup, spicy fritters, sesame dip, aubergine dip, roasted meats and fish, sticky rice with onions and spices. The puddings are sweet: try umm ali, a milky rice pudding with nuts. There are lots of fresh dates,
bananas and oranges.
Egyptian wine is dreadful, but the beer is great. Karkade is hibiscus juice. Egyptians don't make good tea - unless it's mint tea. Strong, Arabic coffee with cardamom is lovely.
Getting there, getting around
BA and EgyptAir fly to Cairo from Heathrow. GB Airways scheduled flights to Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada. Public transport is erratic and most tourists travel by escorted convoy. Taxis everywhere are cheap and readily available, as are horse and carriage rides - agree a price, including baksheesh (tip),
before you get in.
Etiquette
Egypt is a Muslim country and conservative, so while Cairo is cosmopolitan, and used to Western ways, in Upper Egypt, locals live traditionally. Do not wear skimpy clothes outside your hotel, show respect around mosques and remember that public shows of affection are frowned upon.
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